The Sunday Story Behind The Photo with Steve

September 3rd 1989

It was labor day (last day of the summer season 1989) by 6:00pm Hampton beach would look like a ghost town compared to the last sixty days and it would be all mine for the next 9 months. I opened The Board Shop at 9:00am, it was overcast w/ showers and strong NNE winds 20+mph w/ storm surf conditions.

All the tourist were packing up and heading home early due to the weather. The traffic was backed up both ways over the bridge by noon and I had a couple of hours off to grab a session. The only problem was, I wasn't going to be driving anywhere. So I figured the southside of Boar's Head would be my best bet and possibly the only place to surf. It was windy, cold and raw and I was going to have to walk from the beginning of Ocean Blvd, by the bridge to Boar's Head. So I threw on my 5/4mm Body Glove winter suit w/ boots knowing I would be plenty warm to walk both ways and get a session.

Grabbing my Spectrum 6'4 I started the hike, the tide was high and the surf at Hampton Beach was double overhead. As I walked down the sidewalk along the ocean I remember everyone stuck in traffic looking at me. I felt like a KOOK! They were probably saying to themselves "Surfs up DUDE" "Look at the guy w/ the wetsuit on..HA.HA" What they didn't know was that I was about to score an incredible session that I will never forget.

I finally reached the sharp corner at Boar's Head. I went through the condo parking lot, then started the walk out the rocks to "Box on the Rocks". This spot usually only breaks in the middle of Nor' Easters and to have a Nor' Easter at the beginning of September was unheard of. The surf looked to be head high and super fun.

I jump in the water just above Box on the Rocks and made my way out to the line up. After scoring many waves with no one around, except for the cars rounding Boar's Head, I noticed someone standing on the rocks. It was John Walsh, local surfer, photographer, and web designer. John snapped this picture of me and I'm sooo stoked to have it!

I remember walking back to the shop and that KOOK feeling completely changed. I walked w/ confidence. I knew I had just scored something special. If I hadn't just scored I would have been doing the walk of shame. Even though nobody saw the session it didn't matter.

My favorite part of surfing, skating, and snowboarding is getting those sessions that are so special. Then two hours later you're standing in line at the grocery store and your mind starts thinking about how a half an hour ago you were slashing the death box at the C-Bowl, or dropping the head wall at Tuck's , or scoring overhead sets on Labor Day all by yourself and everyone around you can't even understand the concept, or that it even happened.. LOVE THAT

Thanks for the pic John